Portuguese Filigree: "A Prayer in Metal" for the Ancestors and the Children

This filigree dress, which was exhibited in the Portugal pavilion at Expo 2025 in Osaka and Expo 2020 in Dubai, is on display at the Filigree Museum in Gondomar. This unique handcrafted piece took 2,040 hours of work. The bodice is made of several pieces of filigree. On the skirt is the embroidery of three Portuguese caravels, the sails of which also are made of filigree. The dress was a collaboration between master filigree artisan, Arlindo Moura, of Gondomar, and the stylist, Micaela Oliveira, of Trofa, both in Porto District. (Photo from the Filigree Museum)

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Portuguese filigree is shining brighter today than ever before.

The ancient art of filigree -- soldering together threads of gold, or other precious metals, as thin as hair -- was finessed in the 19th century in northern Portugal, particularly in the Minho region, in the municipalities of Póvoa de Lanhoso, in Braga District, and Gondomar, in Porto District.

These two municipalities are dedicated to perpetuating the traditional art into the future as well as creating an international platform, collaborating since they signed a protocol in 2016. They offer workshops at various locations and compete for national and international recognition. They also educate the public through assemblies, the Filigree Museum in Gondomar and the Filigree Route, which starts at the museum and then takes visitors to the workshops of filigree artisans.

The filigree from Portugal surprised the visitors at Expo 2025 Osaka, reported AICEP (Portuguese Trade and Investment Agency) (July 4). During two days (June 30 and July 1), the Portugal Pavilion hosted the exhibition, Ocean of Filigree. Hundreds of visitors quieted at the sight of the beauty of the pieces. Many also tried their hands at the technique.

"The presence of filigree from Portugal at Expo Osaka is much more than a simple jewelry exhibition," said Sandra Almeida, councilor for tourism at Gondomar City Council. "It is a strategic bet on a global stage where we want to assert our cultural identity, reinforce the UNESCO nomination and present the Filigree Route to the world.

"Bringing filigree to Japan is like carrying the heart of Portugal in your hands -- each golden thread tells a story and touches those who value beauty made with soul and time."

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The Viana Heart (Coração de Viana) was commissioned by Queen Maria I for the "blessing" of the birth of her firstborn son at the end of the 18th century, according to The History of Filigree -- A Symbol of Portuguese Love (January 16, 2024), Mar D'Estorias. It represented the Sacred Heart of Jesus, where, at the top, one can glimpse the burning flames of the earth and the warmth of love. Today, it is considered the symbol of the city of Viana do Castelo and, by some, of romantic love.

(Photo from Diário do Minho from Diário da República)

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Certification Hallmark

The National Printing Office and Mint signed a protocol with both municipalities and the certification body A. Certifica, which allows the official hallmark certification of filigree in Portugal, reported the National Printing Office (March 21, 2024). The certification defends local artisans by safeguarding the authenticity of their work and protecting it against industrial imitations, which confuse consumers. To this end, the Portuguese Assay Office produced new hallmarks for the Portuguese Filigree Certification mark.

"One of the challenges of making filigree is that it's a time-consuming technique -- there are so many hours of work involved in preparing each single step of the process, from drawing your wire to 0.25 millimeters (.0098 inches), to twisting it and then, it is flattened, heated, flatttened, heated . . . ! Special filigree solder has to be prepared!" according to Filipa Oliveira on the History of Filigree (March 18, 2021), Goldsmiths' Centre, London.

"Filigree also requires steady hands, trained eyes and a lot of patience, but the main secrets of the creation of filigree are: good wire, passion and a skillful use of torch and solder. While the extraordinary craftsmanship of the intricate pieces captures the senses, at the same time as with any handmade object, filigree has suffered because consumers search for competitive prices and filigree isn't suitable for mass production."

The Filigrana de Portugal Certificate

The municipalities of Gondomar and Póvoa de Lanhosa jointly also introduced the paper certification program Filigrana de Portugal in 2018, according to Filigrana. The reason for the certification is to provide the consumer with a new guarantee of quality while also protecting the integrity of the artisans and their handicraft.

The certificate is issued by A. Certifica, an organization accredited by the Portuguese Institute of Accreditation, and meets the requirements of the National Certification System for Traditional Arts.

National Inventory of Intangible Cultural Heritage

The Directorate-General for Cultural Heritage registered the "Filigree Art of Póvoa de Lanhoso" in the National Inventory of Intangible Cultural Heritage, reported Diário do Minho (May 2, 2023). With this registration, the Directorate-General recognized that the art of filigree remains active in Póvoa de Lanhoso and that it has great relevance in reproducing the memory and identity of the community in which it is embedded.

Four months later, the Directorate-General for Cultural Heritage also registered the filigree of Gondomar Municipality in the National Inventory of Intangible Cultural Heritage, reported Observador (September 29, 2023).

"The creation of filigree pieces stems from a collaborative effort between goldsmiths, who prepare the wire and the frame of the objects, the fillers, artisans who fill the pieces with filigree wire in a home setting and, again, the goldsmiths, who solder the filigree and give the finial finish to the objects."

UNESCO

Working together, the municipalities of Gondomar and Póvoa de Lanhoso formalized the candidacy of Portuguese filigree to be included in UNESCO's representative list of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity, reported Diário de Notícias (June 17).

"The submission of the candidacy of Portuguese Filigree to UNESCO constitutes a commitment to the safeguarding and enhancement of a cultural legacy of exceptional importance," said presidents Luís Filipe Araújo of Gondomar and Federico Castro of Póvoa de Lanhoso, in a press release.

"It is also a recognition of the work and accumulated knowledge of generations of filigree masters, whose dedication and excellence deserve to be preserved, promoted and transmitted to future generations."

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Preparation of the wire for pieces of filigree (Photo from CINDOR)

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Workshops

The two municipalities were unsuccessful in securing UNESCO recognition which did not deter them from persevering in their effort to widen the circle of filigree artisans outside of the family.

In January, for example, trainee artisans are scheduled to begin a work-based module in filigree-making, according to the municipality (December 22). In June, Póvoa de Lanhoso entered into a partnership with Porto-based CINDOR, the Vocational Training Center for Goldsmithing and the Watchmaking Industry, to offer such specialized training.

"The Municipality reinforces its commitment to the qualification, employability and sustainability of a sector which is a symbol of the identity of Póvoa de Lanhoso and the talent passed down from generation to generation."

At the December meeting of municipality representatives, CINDOR's coordinator and artisans from the workshops, some of the pieces made by the 43 trainees were on display.

In Gondomar, 12 workshops are included in the certification list of the national brand, "Filigree of Portugal" and seven workshops are part of the tourist "Filigree Route", according to Filigrana. The Filigree Museum is located here.

Characteristics of Portuguese Gold

Gold is extremely dense, but it is also the most malleable metal. Therefore, it must be mixed with other metals to give it strength.

The alloy contains gold, silver and copper. With a higher content of copper, the shade is more red while a higher silver content results in a more yellow tint.

Filigree, like all objects of art and luxury, use an alloy of copper and silver.

In Portugal, per kilogram (32.3 ounces), there is 800 grams of pure gold (80 percent) and 200 grams (20 percent) for the rest of the alloy, according to Filigrana. This is known as 19.2 karat gold.

Elsewhere, there are cases where the percentage of gold in the alloy is 75 percent by 25 percent (18-karat gold).

"Memory of Those Before Us"

"Each piece of filigree is a prayer in metal -- spirals and curves which carry the memory of those before us," said the sixth-generation master filigree artisan, Arlindo Moura, of Gondomar.

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During the Senhora da Agonia feast in Viana do Castelo in August, participants parade in traditional dress showcasing their filigree, hoop earrings, beaded necklaces, and coins and chains, among other gold pieces. In the 19th century, this type of jewelry emerged and became known in the following century as Ouro Popular Português (Traditional Portuguese Gold Jewelry). It was worn all over the country, with greater use in the North, in particular in the Minho and, there, mainly in the Viana do Castelo region. Gold jewelry was a family's means of saving, according to Traditional Portuguese Gold Jewelry in Viana do Castelo by Rosa Maria dos Santos Mola. (Photo from Visão)

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